Friday, January 11, 2008

You talkin' to me?

Jones Chestnut Street Center City Philadelphia

Across the street from Aqua, the Malaysian fun food spot, is Stephen Starr's ode to American comfort food, Jones. Great breakfasts, chicken and waffles, meat loaf and honest mashed potatoes all contribute to making the concept work well. Ultra casual service far from perfect with staff giving off a subtle vibe of "hey, this is a Starr restaurant, they'll be back". Maybe not!
Given Starr's understanding of what the public wants in service, having not 1 but 2 hostesses stare blankly back from 6 feet away when being beckoned discreetly, repeat discreetly beckoned after our server disappeared, while mouthing," you speaking to me" inexplicable but cost the restaurant any chance of a return visit despite decent food.

What am I missing?

Famous 4th Street Deli Philadelphia

Working on the premise that outlandishly large portion size is the key to success, Famous, a Philly institution, has forgotten that food also has to be delicious. A tongue on rye, a deli staple, brought a sandwich that was 4 inches high, slices of thick a nd not tender bread and a pile of thickly sliced dry tongue. A huge slab of chocolate cake was not moist and if not from a box tasted it. If you really want to fill your stomach with no thought to how good deli food can be, Famous is for you!

French on Pash-shunk? Gutsy move!

Clementine's Passyunk Ave. South Philly

Stylish French bistro in the heart of Little Italy complete with huge menu blackboard on the wall won our hearts on walking in when they sat us at a seldom seen square table for 8. Civil seating with plenty of elbow room as you reach to give table mates a taste of yours. Escargot topped with golden mille feuille were a bit smal but tender and I'd like to say they were delicious except for a total lack of garlic, though garlic butter is indicated on the menu. This had to be not so much bad cooking as it was simply forgotten. It can happen! The portion of wild mushroom pasta appears precious at first but there is no empty feeling after 5 or 6 forksful of this perfectly rich dish. Service though not seasoned, solicitous and attentive. Minimal adornment in pretty room set off by beautiful color scheme.

Politically correct? Not!

Mama Palma's Spruce St. Philly

Excellent thin crust pizza and pretty good salads though at 8 and 9 dollars, a bit overpriced for what is given. Management not apt to make the all star team of the politically correct, (refreshing) as they do not much like screaming babies or strollers in their restaurant and make that known

Culinary cliche just feels good!

Dante & Luigi's Italian Market Philly

Venerable hundred year old Philadelphia institution may very well someday be reconstructed stick by brick in the Smithsonian much like Julia Child's TV kitchen. Mussels, roasted peppers, ling/clam, sauteed spinach, escarole or bitter broccoli, they're all there with perhaps the Chicken Caesar salad the only menu item that may not have appeared on their original blackboard over a century ago. Spaghetti with chicken livers and mushrooms particularly satisfying. There's no foam or fusion but the food is earnest and timeless.

Vinnie T's - Do not fuggetaboudit!

Vinnie T's Wynnewood, PA

Cavernous former movie house in tony Wynnewood is an outpost of a Boston chain whose motto appears to be, if 2 people can finish one entree, it's not big enough! Huge, really big portions are the order of the day here. Excellent quality pork chop perfectly done in garlic and balsamic vinegar and served with roasted potatoes and vegetables. This dish with their apple, Gorgonzola and walnut salad the reason to go and share both plates. With a glass of their signature lager, 2 people will leave neither hungry nor broke. Ton-o-pasta dishes make this the place to go for carbo loading jocks. Congenial and pretty proficient staff. Can get unspeakably busy some weekends with 2 hour waits possible.

Wednesday, January 9, 2008

Go to the Devil? Anytime!

Devil's Alley Chestnut St. Philly
Despite its vaguely Goth appearance to a passersby view, this cool spot has the only lights still glowing after 8:00 PM on this stretch of Chestnut Street at 19th . Prize winning beers with a flight of four 4 ouncers a fun way to imbibe a pint. Food is different and very good across the menu with one of the best turkey burgers in town. The puff pastry on the chicken pot pie is as ethereal as roti and poufy enough to hide a big head of dregs. Dry rub chicken wings unusually meaty, spicy, filling and terrific. Young staff eager and willing and seem to be having a good time. Outstandingly eclectic juke box with Bruce, Stones, U-2 and most artists from the sixties on who ever produced great stuff

The moule Boss, the moule

Zot Head House Square Philadelphia, PA A Belgian bistro which has not completely perfected that which makes it Belgian; its mussels! On several visits, the moules were marred inexplicably by jarred garlic, on another by an overpowering dose of pancetta. Co-owner and host, a former British diplomat unfailingly gracious if not entirely aware of how little he knows about how restaurants work but is learning fast. Encyclopaedic listing of great beers, most served in the correct glass at the appropriate temperature for type. Chef co-owner is determined and capable of making the standard, with interesting exceptions, Belgian menu work. Employs one of the city's most efficient and knowledgeable servers. Unfortunately, her back up team is among the most clueless.

Great Food, Prison View

L'Oca - Fairmount Ave - Philadelphia, PA Very well prepared food with the seafood saffron fettucini a standout. Ethereal gnocchi and seldom seen lamb shoulder done perfectly rare with a blistered outside display superior cooking skills. Stylish room and open kitchen create a pleasing sophisticated minimalist look. With the exception of one skillled pro, service neither indifferent nor polished; mostly tentative but willing. Polenta and snails app excellent as is the roasted chicken. Recent meals show that this chef has the ability to make L'Oca the premier northern Italian kitchen in the city. BYOB

Here we spell service TIPS!

Fresko Cafe - Bryn Mawr, PA - This attractive and nicely lit cafe in Bryn Mawr with the Greek influenced menu features well prepared food and the most arrogantly professional staff in the metro region. The servers know what to do and do it, but the dollar signs are clearly in their eyes with each gesture. The tramasalata, hummus and other meze standbys are uniformly good and prices are not out of line with value. Nonetheless, if the gratuity does not meet approval, expect to be reminded or at very least suffer an icy stare. "Thank you for coming" not in the cards here if you are not a regular as you can leave with only the door closing behind you as a farewell.

Wednesday, January 2, 2008