Alas, Clementine's the classy little bistro on Passyunk Avenue has closed its
doors, May 2008!
Monday, June 30, 2008
Not one of your better reviews, Craig!
TO: Craig LaBan
Subject: Swallow
Read your Swallow review. Disappointed!
It bothers me to no end when accolades are withheld for vaguely defined or dubious reasons.
You took issue with their color scheme? Maybe it's authentic brothel?
You gave Standard Tap, great place, a free shot in the Swallow review, justifiably rhapsodizing over their duck confit. Have you ever run your finger across the woodwork or knick knacks at the Tap? Probably not. Our grungy Tap server, really nice kid, brought out our plates with a kitchen rag hanging out of his rear pocket that was a mini vomitorium of grease, gravy and stiff old stains. I was hungry and worked hard to keep my wife in her chair. If I was a health inspector, I'd have strung yellow tape across the entrance until they dipped the restaurant and the entire staff in hot soapy water.
Why would you take issue with common cheeses like Pierre Robert and Prima Donna? No more ubiquitous than Gorgonzola or Reg. They're there because they're delicious as is the honeycomb on that plate. Maybe the bleu D'Avergne and raw milk Tomme weren't ready that day. And if the frog's legs were underseasoned, fine. But they always look human with their ankles crossed. It's a wrong menu item , always has been.
You loved the crab cake but still took a shot. Bitter salad greens? Was it rocket, treviso, endive? Since when is bitter a pejorative when discussing greens? When I was young broccoli rabe was called bitter broccoli and we loved it. The trout was a "shade" overcooked? Maybe he was acceding to complaints about too moist fish and was being accommodating. And was the fish overcooked on all of your several visits? I've been served "nearly" burnt brown almonds in Paris. A bit too long in the beurre noir? I can live with that. Isn't it your job, indeed duty, to say whether it was burnt or not?
Mussels "relatively" flavorless? Flavorless or not? Tell us! Ambiguity is not a word a writer should relish unless one's writing a suspense novel.
You probably hurt these kids and not for any solid reasons and that is power poorly exerted!
I'd put them on the top of my revisit list real soon. That's a 2 bell restaurant. And Craig, when you want to grind your axe, head for the nearest Chang's or Red Lobster, and not for a couple of young restaurateurs trying desperately to make a contribution to the city and to their craft.
Subject: Swallow
Read your Swallow review. Disappointed!
It bothers me to no end when accolades are withheld for vaguely defined or dubious reasons.
You took issue with their color scheme? Maybe it's authentic brothel?
You gave Standard Tap, great place, a free shot in the Swallow review, justifiably rhapsodizing over their duck confit. Have you ever run your finger across the woodwork or knick knacks at the Tap? Probably not. Our grungy Tap server, really nice kid, brought out our plates with a kitchen rag hanging out of his rear pocket that was a mini vomitorium of grease, gravy and stiff old stains. I was hungry and worked hard to keep my wife in her chair. If I was a health inspector, I'd have strung yellow tape across the entrance until they dipped the restaurant and the entire staff in hot soapy water.
Why would you take issue with common cheeses like Pierre Robert and Prima Donna? No more ubiquitous than Gorgonzola or Reg. They're there because they're delicious as is the honeycomb on that plate. Maybe the bleu D'Avergne and raw milk Tomme weren't ready that day. And if the frog's legs were underseasoned, fine. But they always look human with their ankles crossed. It's a wrong menu item , always has been.
You loved the crab cake but still took a shot. Bitter salad greens? Was it rocket, treviso, endive? Since when is bitter a pejorative when discussing greens? When I was young broccoli rabe was called bitter broccoli and we loved it. The trout was a "shade" overcooked? Maybe he was acceding to complaints about too moist fish and was being accommodating. And was the fish overcooked on all of your several visits? I've been served "nearly" burnt brown almonds in Paris. A bit too long in the beurre noir? I can live with that. Isn't it your job, indeed duty, to say whether it was burnt or not?
Mussels "relatively" flavorless? Flavorless or not? Tell us! Ambiguity is not a word a writer should relish unless one's writing a suspense novel.
You probably hurt these kids and not for any solid reasons and that is power poorly exerted!
I'd put them on the top of my revisit list real soon. That's a 2 bell restaurant. And Craig, when you want to grind your axe, head for the nearest Chang's or Red Lobster, and not for a couple of young restaurateurs trying desperately to make a contribution to the city and to their craft.
Sunday, June 29, 2008
Attention All Restaurants: You're not IBM!
Restaurant Owners,
Just an FYI, when I call for a reservation, I don't want to know that your menu
choices have changed, and I don't want to be automatically put on hold and kept
on queue for any amount of time. I want to immediately hear a cheery human voice
and I want them to tell me if they can accommodate my request so that if they cant,
I can immediately call one of the more than 11,000 other restaurants in Philly or
one of the 23,000 in NYC. I'm still waiting for a call back from SnackBar, 2 calls and
Rae not that I haven't made other plans. Where did this hubris come from? A restaurant
is not an insurance company, a bank, a hospital or any other institution from which I must suffer arrogance. You're a restaurant, regardless of the regard you or anyone else has for
your food! So, for the newcomers to this most competitive business, get a grip. Your job,
if you are to max out your chances for success must make it easy on us , not difficult.
And speaking of success in the restaurant business, call one of Danny Meyer's or Mario Batali's restaurants in Manhattan. No machine, a real cheery voice. Can't think of 2 more successful restaurateurs, Can you? Think there's a connection?
Friday, January 11, 2008
You talkin' to me?
Jones Chestnut Street Center City Philadelphia
Across the street from Aqua, the Malaysian fun food spot, is Stephen Starr's ode to American comfort food, Jones. Great breakfasts, chicken and waffles, meat loaf and honest mashed potatoes all contribute to making the concept work well. Ultra casual service far from perfect with staff giving off a subtle vibe of "hey, this is a Starr restaurant, they'll be back". Maybe not!
Given Starr's understanding of what the public wants in service, having not 1 but 2 hostesses stare blankly back from 6 feet away when being beckoned discreetly, repeat discreetly beckoned after our server disappeared, while mouthing," you speaking to me" inexplicable but cost the restaurant any chance of a return visit despite decent food.
Across the street from Aqua, the Malaysian fun food spot, is Stephen Starr's ode to American comfort food, Jones. Great breakfasts, chicken and waffles, meat loaf and honest mashed potatoes all contribute to making the concept work well. Ultra casual service far from perfect with staff giving off a subtle vibe of "hey, this is a Starr restaurant, they'll be back". Maybe not!
Given Starr's understanding of what the public wants in service, having not 1 but 2 hostesses stare blankly back from 6 feet away when being beckoned discreetly, repeat discreetly beckoned after our server disappeared, while mouthing," you speaking to me" inexplicable but cost the restaurant any chance of a return visit despite decent food.
What am I missing?
Famous 4th Street Deli Philadelphia
Working on the premise that outlandishly large portion size is the key to success, Famous, a Philly institution, has forgotten that food also has to be delicious. A tongue on rye, a deli staple, brought a sandwich that was 4 inches high, slices of thick a nd not tender bread and a pile of thickly sliced dry tongue. A huge slab of chocolate cake was not moist and if not from a box tasted it. If you really want to fill your stomach with no thought to how good deli food can be, Famous is for you!
Working on the premise that outlandishly large portion size is the key to success, Famous, a Philly institution, has forgotten that food also has to be delicious. A tongue on rye, a deli staple, brought a sandwich that was 4 inches high, slices of thick a nd not tender bread and a pile of thickly sliced dry tongue. A huge slab of chocolate cake was not moist and if not from a box tasted it. If you really want to fill your stomach with no thought to how good deli food can be, Famous is for you!
French on Pash-shunk? Gutsy move!
Clementine's Passyunk Ave. South Philly
Stylish French bistro in the heart of Little Italy complete with huge menu blackboard on the wall won our hearts on walking in when they sat us at a seldom seen square table for 8. Civil seating with plenty of elbow room as you reach to give table mates a taste of yours. Escargot topped with golden mille feuille were a bit smal but tender and I'd like to say they were delicious except for a total lack of garlic, though garlic butter is indicated on the menu. This had to be not so much bad cooking as it was simply forgotten. It can happen! The portion of wild mushroom pasta appears precious at first but there is no empty feeling after 5 or 6 forksful of this perfectly rich dish. Service though not seasoned, solicitous and attentive. Minimal adornment in pretty room set off by beautiful color scheme.
Stylish French bistro in the heart of Little Italy complete with huge menu blackboard on the wall won our hearts on walking in when they sat us at a seldom seen square table for 8. Civil seating with plenty of elbow room as you reach to give table mates a taste of yours. Escargot topped with golden mille feuille were a bit smal but tender and I'd like to say they were delicious except for a total lack of garlic, though garlic butter is indicated on the menu. This had to be not so much bad cooking as it was simply forgotten. It can happen! The portion of wild mushroom pasta appears precious at first but there is no empty feeling after 5 or 6 forksful of this perfectly rich dish. Service though not seasoned, solicitous and attentive. Minimal adornment in pretty room set off by beautiful color scheme.
Politically correct? Not!
Mama Palma's Spruce St. Philly
Excellent thin crust pizza and pretty good salads though at 8 and 9 dollars, a bit overpriced for what is given. Management not apt to make the all star team of the politically correct, (refreshing) as they do not much like screaming babies or strollers in their restaurant and make that known
Excellent thin crust pizza and pretty good salads though at 8 and 9 dollars, a bit overpriced for what is given. Management not apt to make the all star team of the politically correct, (refreshing) as they do not much like screaming babies or strollers in their restaurant and make that known
Culinary cliche just feels good!
Dante & Luigi's Italian Market Philly
Venerable hundred year old Philadelphia institution may very well someday be reconstructed stick by brick in the Smithsonian much like Julia Child's TV kitchen. Mussels, roasted peppers, ling/clam, sauteed spinach, escarole or bitter broccoli, they're all there with perhaps the Chicken Caesar salad the only menu item that may not have appeared on their original blackboard over a century ago. Spaghetti with chicken livers and mushrooms particularly satisfying. There's no foam or fusion but the food is earnest and timeless.
Venerable hundred year old Philadelphia institution may very well someday be reconstructed stick by brick in the Smithsonian much like Julia Child's TV kitchen. Mussels, roasted peppers, ling/clam, sauteed spinach, escarole or bitter broccoli, they're all there with perhaps the Chicken Caesar salad the only menu item that may not have appeared on their original blackboard over a century ago. Spaghetti with chicken livers and mushrooms particularly satisfying. There's no foam or fusion but the food is earnest and timeless.
Vinnie T's - Do not fuggetaboudit!
Vinnie T's Wynnewood, PA
Cavernous former movie house in tony Wynnewood is an outpost of a Boston chain whose motto appears to be, if 2 people can finish one entree, it's not big enough! Huge, really big portions are the order of the day here. Excellent quality pork chop perfectly done in garlic and balsamic vinegar and served with roasted potatoes and vegetables. This dish with their apple, Gorgonzola and walnut salad the reason to go and share both plates. With a glass of their signature lager, 2 people will leave neither hungry nor broke. Ton-o-pasta dishes make this the place to go for carbo loading jocks. Congenial and pretty proficient staff. Can get unspeakably busy some weekends with 2 hour waits possible.
Cavernous former movie house in tony Wynnewood is an outpost of a Boston chain whose motto appears to be, if 2 people can finish one entree, it's not big enough! Huge, really big portions are the order of the day here. Excellent quality pork chop perfectly done in garlic and balsamic vinegar and served with roasted potatoes and vegetables. This dish with their apple, Gorgonzola and walnut salad the reason to go and share both plates. With a glass of their signature lager, 2 people will leave neither hungry nor broke. Ton-o-pasta dishes make this the place to go for carbo loading jocks. Congenial and pretty proficient staff. Can get unspeakably busy some weekends with 2 hour waits possible.
Wednesday, January 9, 2008
Go to the Devil? Anytime!
Devil's Alley Chestnut St. Philly
Despite its vaguely Goth appearance to a passersby view, this cool spot has the only lights still glowing after 8:00 PM on this stretch of Chestnut Street at 19th . Prize winning beers with a flight of four 4 ouncers a fun way to imbibe a pint. Food is different and very good across the menu with one of the best turkey burgers in town. The puff pastry on the chicken pot pie is as ethereal as roti and poufy enough to hide a big head of dregs. Dry rub chicken wings unusually meaty, spicy, filling and terrific. Young staff eager and willing and seem to be having a good time. Outstandingly eclectic juke box with Bruce, Stones, U-2 and most artists from the sixties on who ever produced great stuff
Despite its vaguely Goth appearance to a passersby view, this cool spot has the only lights still glowing after 8:00 PM on this stretch of Chestnut Street at 19th . Prize winning beers with a flight of four 4 ouncers a fun way to imbibe a pint. Food is different and very good across the menu with one of the best turkey burgers in town. The puff pastry on the chicken pot pie is as ethereal as roti and poufy enough to hide a big head of dregs. Dry rub chicken wings unusually meaty, spicy, filling and terrific. Young staff eager and willing and seem to be having a good time. Outstandingly eclectic juke box with Bruce, Stones, U-2 and most artists from the sixties on who ever produced great stuff
The moule Boss, the moule
Zot Head House Square Philadelphia, PA A Belgian bistro which has not completely perfected that which makes it Belgian; its mussels! On several visits, the moules were marred inexplicably by jarred garlic, on another by an overpowering dose of pancetta. Co-owner and host, a former British diplomat unfailingly gracious if not entirely aware of how little he knows about how restaurants work but is learning fast. Encyclopaedic listing of great beers, most served in the correct glass at the appropriate temperature for type. Chef co-owner is determined and capable of making the standard, with interesting exceptions, Belgian menu work. Employs one of the city's most efficient and knowledgeable servers. Unfortunately, her back up team is among the most clueless.
Great Food, Prison View
L'Oca - Fairmount Ave - Philadelphia, PA Very well prepared food with the seafood saffron fettucini a standout. Ethereal gnocchi and seldom seen lamb shoulder done perfectly rare with a blistered outside display superior cooking skills. Stylish room and open kitchen create a pleasing sophisticated minimalist look. With the exception of one skillled pro, service neither indifferent nor polished; mostly tentative but willing. Polenta and snails app excellent as is the roasted chicken. Recent meals show that this chef has the ability to make L'Oca the premier northern Italian kitchen in the city. BYOB
Here we spell service TIPS!
Fresko Cafe - Bryn Mawr, PA - This attractive and nicely lit cafe in Bryn Mawr with the Greek influenced menu features well prepared food and the most arrogantly professional staff in the metro region. The servers know what to do and do it, but the dollar signs are clearly in their eyes with each gesture. The tramasalata, hummus and other meze standbys are uniformly good and prices are not out of line with value. Nonetheless, if the gratuity does not meet approval, expect to be reminded or at very least suffer an icy stare. "Thank you for coming" not in the cards here if you are not a regular as you can leave with only the door closing behind you as a farewell.
Wednesday, January 2, 2008
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